Spring 2014

A new Scamp at the Northwest Marine Center in Port Townsend, Washington Photo: Tom Davison © 2014

By Gus Beare As many of you are aware I sold my beloved Flicka Caraway in the autumn of 2012. I will miss her a great deal and I will always remember her fondly. She gave me so much in experience and knowledge and helped me make many new friends. Thankfully, she has a keen new owner who has put her straight into a nice dry shed for the winter and I am sure he will look after her well. I have offered to help rig her and navigate her safely to her new home in Poole Harbour. So if that happens it will be a nice way to say goodbye properly.

busy, thoughts of the next boat have been smoldering on the back burner.

possibility of making a poor decision I have been mulling the options for some time.

I decided after Caraway that I would not be buying another cruising boat unless I was planning to take time out again and focus purely on cruising. I have come to learn that boat ownership and full time work are not an ideal marriage.

Since I live on the edge of a small and very shallow harbour that’s formed by the merging of two rivers and the sea I began to think of small boats I could get on the water in quickly and easily. With this in mind I began to think up some requirements.

Boats are expensive to berth and maintain and weekends too short for cruising in tidal areas. So, the plan is to save the bulk of the proceeds from the sale of Caraway and perhaps in the future quit work again and focus once again on some proper cruising.

Criteria 1 - I realized soon on that the most important requirement of all was this one: be able to get on the water quickly and easily single-handed.

I have a partner and a young son. I want to be able to take them sailing. However, call me It has been a busy winter. Full on work on In the meantime I need a boat, access to a boat what you like, I can’t explain it but from time various IT projects and looking after my or to sign up for some crewing. So, being the to time I need to get out on the water alone. growing son who is now 15 months old and type of person that doesn’t like to rush into Perhaps I am an occasional loner? According busy as a puppy. With so much to keep me anything complex and fraught with the to personality analysis I am a gregarious 24

Swallow Boats make some very interesting and clever boats. The Trouper is light enough to car top and would be ideal for a shallow harbour. She is also very pretty and quite spacious. It’s possible to sleep in her and there were plans for a tent. Swallow boats are best known for their BayRaider series of water ballasted trailer sailors. I very much like them but unfortunately the 17’ BayRaider is the smallest they make. I wish they would design a version under 15 foot. I would be very tempted. Weight is a very important factor in all boat design and it’s interesting to see that home built epoxy ply boats carry a considerable weight advantage over their plastic counterparts. Consider the 12’ Cormorant which is heavier in plastic than the considerably beamier 13 foot Houdini is in wood. All this boats have a lot of appeal. But the Navigator is a favorite. However, even though a partial kit is available it’s a lot of work to build and I simply don’t have the time. Besides, its just too heavy to launch alone. What really grabbed me in terms of practicality is the Skerry. Seen here on youtube she’s an attractive double ender available in kit form here. She is 15 feet long, 4.5 feet wide and yet she is only 40 kg in weight. I had an email chat with Loch Fyne kits and they are very helpful. I explained my thinking and they suggested the Skerry right off because she is so light that she can be car topped and she can easily be launched single handed using a kayak trolley. This would mean I could store her in the garage or garden for the winter and keep her in the dinghy park during the summer and I wouldn’t need a road trailer or a tow bar fitted to the car. Indeed the Skerry has a lot of practical appeal. A very simple rig that can be stowed inside the boat and she rows well too. This would mean I could take the family out on the harbour and when the wind dies or there is none we could row. We could also explore up river and take a picnic and go places where sailing is not practical or easy. But there are a few other things I would like to be able to do. How about sailing out to sea and around Hurst point and up into Newtown River and camping aboard for the night? On a fine day I see nothing too scary about that. But, the problem with the Skerry is that although it’s 15 feet long you can’t really lie down inside it because of the central bulkhead. The other issue I have with it is that the centerboard/daggerboard (whatever you call it) does not flip up. I think this will be annoying in Christchurch where it’s very shallow in most places even at high water. 26

What irritates me is that there are boats that appear to be nearly there. The G.I.S. (Goat Island Skiff) is the right length and weight and almost the right shape. It even has an interesting and powerful rig. I like a yawl and also the idea of self steering and heaving to with such a rig. There are some nice videos and some inspiring writing in there. The boat is appealing in many ways and she might even be light enough to launch and retrieve single-handed. It is certainly worth further investigation. But the problem with a G.I.S. is that it is about as stable under sail as a two legged horse. It could fall over at any moment. I don’t want a boat I can accidentally and easily capsize. That would be dangerous even in the harbour at any time other than high summer. The water can be very cold even in May. I can’t see myself wearing a dry suit to pop out for a quick sail. L

Another boat that interests me is the Norse Boat 12.5. It’s a nice looking boat with an interesting rig that’s very simple and efficient. What’s more it’s designed to both row and sail and sleep aboard. As it’s a production boat you can buy all the extras such as covers and cockpit tents all ready made. You can even buy a partial kit where you get the basic hull and can fit it out at home. There’s even a completely wooden version. If that’s much lighter than the plastic it might well be worth a better look. The main issue I see is that I’d have to have it shipped to the UK. And that and the boat itself, even in kit form is not cheap. But it would be a fun project to work on slowly until my son is old enough to come out in it safely. But I need to find the balance between getting something to use soon and saving enough capital to buy a cruiser later. The research goes on... M

Here are the internet links to the sailboats mentioned in this article. Duckworks

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jw/index.htm

https://www.theinvisibleworkshop.blogspot.co.uk

http://www.storerboatplans.com/GIS/GISplan.html

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jw/houdini/index.htm

http://www.jwboatdesigns.co.nz https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/jwbuilders/info

http://www.norseboat.com/NorseBoat_12.5.html

https://www.facebook.com/SmallCraftAdvisorMagazineProject http://smallcraftadvisor.com/component/content/article/361

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jw/scamp/index.htm

http://www.fyneboatkits.co.uk/kits/sailing/skerry/

https://www.facebook.com/SwallowBoats http://www.swallowboatsassociation.com http://www.swallowboats.com/our-boats/open-boats/trouper-12

Flicka Profile: La Paz, Baja California Sur

Docked in La Paz, Baja California Sur, s/y DULCINEA is ready for cruising the Sea of Cortez. Photo: Tom Davison © 2014

Nearly two years ago, Betsy and I flew to San Jose del Cabo for a vacation. The trip meant flying out of Detroit with a stop in Houston. This was the only direct flight to Cabo that we could find from our area. This trip was a very welcome break from the long Michigan winter. One of the side trips was a drive up to La Paz to see a Flicka in brokerage. It was a newer one that had been sailed down from California by Randy Ramirez in one of the Baja Ha-Ha cruising gatherings. In the fall every year, a group of cruisers leave San Diego and collectively sail to Cabo San Lucas and around to La Paz. Randy was the first Flicka to take part in this cruising rally.

This Flicka remained in La Paz since the Baja Carlos. Your Flicka would already be there, Ha-Ha. Over the winter of 2014-2014, s/y ready for sailing. It would be cheaper than a condo or time share and offer you the freedom DULCINEA was on the market. to explore This is a well equipped Flicka with a variety of options, some are visible in the images, some Contact: are not. The most obvious are the windvane Mick Rickman or Shelly R.Ward and the propane tank for the stove. The teak Marina de la Paz decks are an uncommon option for the Flicka. An Espar diesel heater is one of the other options added to this Flicka. While it might be used infrequently on the Sea of Cortez, having heat aboard would certainly make sailing in the shoulder seasons much more comfortable in more northern latitudes. Owning a Flicka in La Paz would be a great way to sail the Sea of Cortez without the long passage south, or towing from Arizona to San

La Paz, B.C.S., Mexico 23000 Toll-Free (855) 22-LAPAZ Tel:

The v-berth and interior of s/y DULCINEA. Photo: Tom Davison © 2014

Lots of teak, the lines led aft, a seahood, a windvane, and a propane stone. Photo: Tom Davison © 2014

DULCINEA has a teak deck. Photo: Tom Davison © 2014

DULCINEA has a windvane. Photo: Tom Davison © 2014

DULCINEA at the docks in La Paz, Baja California Sur. Photo: Tom Davison © 2014

I acquired BALLO LISCIO, my 1997 Pacific Seacraft Flicka, in the spring of 2007. She was ten years of age at that time and had mainly been day sailed on Long Island Sound. She came with a portable/collapsible boarding ladder, which has arms that swivel over the cockpit coaming. The problem is storage underway!

OceanCraft Sailboats 1107 Bennett Road Minnesott, NC 28510 (252) 617-2763 www.dawsoncreekboatworks.com/?p=292

A new Flicka seahood being prepared for shipping to a Flicka captain. Photo: Oceancraft Sailboats © 2014

Turning The Flicka Building s/y RED RASCAL Part Four of Twelve

Photo # 1: With the topsides paint completed and the bottom paint applied, it is time to turn my Flicka over. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014

Before the actual interior build begins, the problem of turning the boat confronted me. I had suggestions from friends, my wife, and several books. They ranged from “buy a case of beer and enlist a dozen or so strong, healthy guys to lift it over” to have some neighbors do it. I nixed that idea for if anyone got hurt, I would rather it be me. I finally settled on a form of a non-traveling travel-lift, that is, a sort of four-poster bed. I bought four winches from a discount builders’ supply (Harbor Freight). Then I built the four support posts that you see in the photo # 1 above. Photo # 2 shows a brace for turning that will allow the truckers’ strap to adhere. Otherwise, if the strap were against the hull I felt it would slip and not turn over. The width of the double 6

braces is slightly narrower than the strap so that the strap will grip the projected braces and yet not too tightly in order to allow the strap to come out as the boat turns. And so, one day when my wife and daughter went shopping (the worriers), I decided to begin the 6 hour process of turning a nearly 3,000 pound boat by myself! The image above (Photo # 3) shows the start by winding both winches on the starboard side a few turns and then going around and unwinding the two port side winches by the same amount of turns of the winch handleswith a 9’ ceiling and an 8’ boat’s beam, I had a clearance of only 6” from the ceiling and 6” from the floor when the boat was half way over. Everything went well until the boat was nearly halfway over. Then the keel got stuck against the wall of the garage. To help you visualize

this, if you are at the bow of the upside down boat, the keel would be at 12:00 o/c and the boat needs to turn counterclockwise so the keel would end up at 6:00, but is stuck at 10:00. Oh, man! At this point there was no room behind the stuck hull to get behind it and push it away from the wall. So, I had to reach inside the hull, grab one of the cross braces, pull as hard as I could and then run to avoid the hull moving towards me to complete its turning! To illustrate the problem, it would be as if a child on a swing were stuck at the top of the arc of the swing and you stood in front and pulled the child free but then the swing came rushing towards you! Anyway, I did manage to free the stuck keel and still get out of the way as it continued to turn. I thought I was home free, not so. As I continued to turn the boat with the winches, Flicka Friends F

Photo # 2: One of the braces for turning the hull over. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014

first the ceiling fluorescent light and then the garage door opener moor impaired the continued rotation. So, I attached the light close to the ceiling, leaving just enough room for the boat’s clearance. But the garage door motor and rails had to be completely disassembled and taken down!

Photo # 3: Using trucker straps to turn the hull. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014

dinette table, etc., at 172o. The frames were my reference points since they were absolutely vertical when they were bolted in place prior to turning the boat.

I also found a great carpenter’s “square” that had a dial and a leveling bubble-when one turns the dial to the desired angle, 82o, the After six hours of cranking in the straps on one leveling bubble will be centered when the side and un-cranking the straps on the other, measured object is at the desired angle. It the boat was successfully turned over just as would be the same as we do with an ordinary my wife and daughter drove up. “Look” level for 90o. exclaimed my daughter “Dad has turned the One of the first things I did when the boat was boat over!” And, unsaid, he’s still alive! launched was to check that the bulkheads were The next step was to use the sling of the at 90o and so they were! trucker’s strap to level the boat in preparation to placing it on a cradle. But due to the Finally, I could now build a cradle for the boat. forward sheer, the bow nearly touched the The next part was to saw off the frame ceiling leaving no room for working. extensions ( Photo # 2) flush with the sheer, remove the temporary internal braces, and Therefore, I had to let the boat sit on her keel. install the first bulkhead (arrow). Also you can This provided the needed overhead room but see that the boat is sitting at an angle with the the boat now sat at an angle of 82o to the stern higher than normal). All bulkheads were vertical and 172o horizontally (or 8o below the now installed. horizontal). This meant that all vertical structures, doors, bulkheads, etc., had to be Then an important aspect to the rigidity of the built at 82o and all level surfaces, galley, hull involved constructing the sheer clamp. Flicka Friends

This can be seen in Photo # 9 (arrow #2) and is 3”x4” thick laminated beam that runs from stem to stern flush to the inside of the top of the hull. Not only is it important for hull rigidity but this provides the base for the deck to sit on. Also the deck beams are notched and inserted into the sheer clamp. These beams are a very crucial support for the deck and the trunk house. In addition, the sheer clamp prevents lateral flexing or “breathing” that can occur to boats without a sheer clamp in severe storms. This structure was epoxied and bolted to the hull. Well, you’ve hung in there so far, I hope, for the next chapters will feature more interesting and applicable aspects, such as constructing an enclosed head, a galley with hand cut dovetailed drawers, a water heater, a recessed trash can, the forward berth, an anchor rode locker, a dinette that can be converted to upper and lower bunk beds, and the installation of a simple and quiet electric inboard motor. I can hardly wait! Next: Building the galley and the head. 7 F

Photo # 4: Turning the hull over took six hours and considerable caution. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014

Photo # 5: Getting close to halfway. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014 8

Photo # 6: My Flicka is now turned over halfway. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014

Photo # 7: RED RASCAL is nearly turned over after six hours of work. Another hour and the job was completed. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014 Flicka Friends

Photo # 8: With RED RASCAL turned over, it was time to build a cradle. The first bulkhead’s angle was checked as well. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014

Photo # 9: A 3” x 4” beam runs stem to stern. It adds rigidity and a surface for the deck to rest upon. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014 10

Removing the gasket material from the inside of the Bomar forward hatch of s/y BALLO LISCIO. Photo: Daryl Clark © 2014

The good news is the aluminum hatch frame was still in excellent condition and could be reused. The Lens was badly scratched, cloudy, Late in the 2012 sailing season I had noticed and in need of replacement. The Bomar hatch that the forward hatch on BALLO LISCIO, has a serial number on the inside of the frame, our 1997 Pacific Seacraft Flicka, was starting to which simplified the ordering process for the leak. replacement lens. s/y BALLO LISCIO

and keep any moisture out of the boat. To prepare the frame for mounting the new lens, the following tasks: 1.

Remove the current lens from the frame without damaging the frame.

2. Remove old gasket. Bomar was able to provide a new lens, gasket material, adhesive, and instructions for 3. Remove old adhesive. installation. Delivery would be in about 3 or 4 weeks; I decided to order the materials 4. Tape the new lens to ensure that the new adhesive only bonds to the frame immediately and then install during a good supports. weather window during the next sailing season. 5. Apply adhesive to the frame and mount To make it through the rest of the season, I In preparation for the lens replacement, I the new lens and let the adhesive cure. was advised by the Barkers Island Marina needed to have the hatch frame and lens off service manager to apply some electrical tape the boat for several days. I used some scrap 6. Remove excess adhesive to the seams at the edge of the lens on the plywood and a scroll saw to cut out the outside of the frame. This simple solution gave material to fit over the part of the forward Step 1: To remove the original lens, I used me a temporary fix to the problem and time to hatch that remains on the boat. I then used several putty knives, wooden wedges, heat arrange to obtain the proper materials for a some white tape used for shrink-wrapping gun, and a large screw driver to pry it loose. long-term solution. boats to seat the plywood panel to the frame You have to take your time and work around The adhesive holding the lens to the aluminum frame had failed and was intermittently leaking water into the forward berth. On further inspection, I could lightly press the lens against the frame and see the lens separation in several sections where the adhesive had failed.

the edges, keeping the tools from gouging the frame; use the wedges and putty knives to separate the adhesive from the lens; while using the heat gun to allow the adhesive to release. Step 2: The old gasket was removed quite easily with an old screw driver with the edges rounded, so that it did not dig into the aluminum frame and using a gentle touch with the tool on the aluminum frame. Plastic tools would even be better. Step 3: I tried several tools to remove the old adhesive; the best was a cone shaped wire brush for my Dremel tool – which quickly removed the old material. One thing I would recommend doing before starting: double tape any painted frame areas with painters tape to make sure the wire brush does not damage the paint on the aluminum frame. This will make it a little easier when using the wire brush on the Dremel tool to keep it from possibly scratching the frame! This generally makes a lot of black dust – I used a shop vacuum to pick it up and wore a sanding mask while removing.

A screwdriver was modified to remove the gasket from the Bomar hatch. Photo: Daryl Clark © 2014

Step 4: The next task is to prepare the new lens prior to final mounting on the aluminum frame with adhesive. You really want to take your time preparing the lens and make sure you know exactly where it is going to lie on the aluminum frame. Apply several layers of painter’s tape (I used the blue 3M product) next to where the adhesive will be used to fasten the lens to the frame. This will make it much easier to clean up after the adhesive sets. Note: this must be done on both sides of the Lens, as the adhesive will squeeze out of the channel on the outside of the frame, as well as the inside of the joint! Mark the corners of the lens and the aluminum frame will letters (N, S, E, W); this will ensure that you will automatically (hopefully) place the lens in the correct location on the frame the first time after adhesive is applied. Step 5: After you have done a few dry runs, checking the painters tape for correct layout and coverage on both sides of the frame and lens: you are ready to apply the adhesive to the frame and place the lens gently over it. Make sure the lens does not shift over the frame and sits evenly in the channel (rabbet in the frame where the lens sits). Then place some light weights on top of the lens to gently compress the lens on the frame and allow adhesive to dry over night.

Ready to remove the old adhesive from the hatch frame. Photo: Daryl Clark © 2014 Flicka Friends

Step 6: After curing, you can remove the tape along with the excess adhesive. You did tape everything right; and you are ready to reinstall the frame on the forward hatch mounting plate of your Flicka. 13 F

Removing the adhesive with a Dremel Tool.

Nearly done with the removal of the old adhesive from the hatch frame. Photo: Daryl Clark © 2014 14

Masking completed on the outside of the lens. Photo: Daryl Clark © 2014

The new masked lens is embedded in the new adhesive and weighed down to set. Now, just waiting for it to cure. Photo: Daryl Clark © 2014

Circumnavigating Vancouver Island The Way of WINDWARD PILGRIM John Hazen

Getting ready to depart the Boat Haven on May 31, 2014 to catch the last hours of the ebb out past Point Wilson. This was the beginning of a one hundred day circumnavigation around Vancouver Island aboard s/y WINDWARD PILGRIM. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

Sails up on s/y WINDWARD PILGRIM and sailing around Point Hudson, WA. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

Near the south end of San Juan Island, I passed a large Orca. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

In my favorite cove at Reid harbor, Stuart Island. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

WINDWARD PILGRIM anchored in Tribune Bay, Hornby Island. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

Wing & wing out of Comox. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

Anchored in Mitlenatch Island, a park and bird nesting site. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

Anchored in Forward Harbor at Douglas Bay. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

Port Hardy...just like the guidebooks! Photo: John Hazen © 2014

A nice calm day near Solander Island, Brooks Peninsula. I went between the island and Cape Cook. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

Wing & wing for ten miles down the Esperanza Inlet to Tahsis. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

Sailing in Nootka Sound aboard s/y WINDWARD PILGRIM. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

At the docks in Ucluelet. Which one is my boat? Photo: John Hazen © 2014

Fogbound in the Strait of Juan de Fuca for an hour. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

Leaving Victoria Harbor, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

In Princess Margaret Marine Park, Portland Island. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

An out of the way spot in Montague Harbor. Photo: John Hazen © 2014

Ditch Bag - The topic of a ditch bag came up. In the movie, Redford had to dig around to get the items he needed. This might make for a good story, but had the sailboat been more severely damaged and had sunk in minutes, there would not be any time to look for the items. With the bag, you can grab it and get off a sinking sailboat. Life Raft - The same goes for a life raft. It needs to be accessible in case there is very little time to evacuate and abandon ship. For coastal Flickas and many others that don’t have a $3,500+ life raft aboard, the EPIRB makes even more sense. Old Flares - There may be twenty-five flares aboard s/y BLUES SKIES. Last fall, I was looking for a way to reduce that number. After seeing this movie, they will stay aboard. While the correct number of unexpired flares will be kept, having a bunch of them can’t hurt. Waterproof VHF - Being able to hail a passing ship or communicate directly with the crew of a coast guard rescue vessel or aircraft could make the rescue much easier and safer. Strobe Light - The movie script didn’t include a strobe light. This would have been something that could alert passing ships of your predicament even if you were asleep.

Some of the safety gear aboard s/y ZANZIBAR. Note the new ACR GPS PLB! Photo: Randy Richardson © 2014

Last fall, Randy Richardson and I went to see Robert Redford’s sailing movie “All is Lost.” Basically, it is about a sailboat that is damaged in the open ocean by a shipping container and it eventually sinks, forcing the solo captain into his life raft.

The movie had plenty of errors and it could have been researched much better. Having said this, Robert Redford is in his seventies and for his character to be offshore at that age is something that most of us would hope for. Doing your own stunts at this age is a worthy achievement. Bravo!

Most of the errors were writing based and showed poor research. One example is the use After the movie, we talked about the lessons of a crescent wrench to connect the coax wire learned and some of the writing mistakes cable to the base of the vhf antenna. This may made in the movie. Without spoiling the movie look good for the camera, but anyone who has (this information above was in the trailers), ever worked with coax cable,dang a crescent one simple and relatively inexpensive item wrench is incorrect. would have made the rescue easy for any ship in the area. This item is an Emergency After the movie, Randy and I exchanged Position-Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB) or several e-mails discussing what was learned even one of the smaller, personal locator from the movie. The addition of an EPIRB of some type would be the first thing to consider. beacons (PLB). They start around $250USD. Having a Personal Locator Beacon or PLB In the last issue of Flicka Friends, there was a would supplement the marine radio signal story about a Flicka that was abandoned well with using Digital Selective Calling. offshore. Without a working marine vhf radio, the captain could have been in for a very long Even here on Lake Michigan, having a PLB or and potentially deadly drift toward Europe. an EPRIB might make a considerable Having and using an EPRIB saved him. The difference. One accident in the summer of bottom line is that anyone sailing offshore 2014 in northern Lake Michigan resulted in a without an EPIRB is cutting corners. Without hypothermia death in July in just two hours of any means of contacting others for assistance, exposure. Nightfall complicated the rescue. A you are really on your own. Being able to take strobe may have helped. Extremely cold spring water temperatures are also very dangerous. advantage of nearby shipping traffic is vital. Flicka Friends

Water - Being able to convert seawater to drinkable water was also missed. While the impromptu solar still did work, a “real” solar still could produce one to four pints per day. This would be another $250 purchase that would be worth every penny if you needed it. Watermaker - Another direction would be a manual watermaker. A hand powered pump can produce an ounce or water in two minutes. This could be two pints an hour. While taking more effort, the pump might be a better source of water in less than flat sea conditions. This would add $1,000 to your safety system. This list of items can be expanded and I’m sure that there could be considerable debate about what and how much gear would be needed. While the movie was lacking in some areas of writing and research, it is worth seeing. In the past, I’ve thought about that the movies that should be aboard a sailboat. Maybe a top ten list could be developed for movies that you might have aboard for entertainment. Until sitting down and writing this, I wasn’t sure if ALL IS LOST would be on the list. I’d have to say that the movie did bring about some discussion of what needs to be aboard. And the actions you should take. The movie makes one think about what you might do in a similar situation. For that reason, it does belong on board. 11 F

If your Flicka is in need of a new companionway hatch or seahood, Oceancraft Sailboats is making them from the original molds. Photo: Oceancraft Sailboats © 2014

By Oceancraft Sailboats Hello to all happy Flicka Owners and those of you who may want to own a Flicka! My name is Amy, and along with Brad Simeon, we would like to introduce OceanCraft Sailboats to you. We wanted to make sure that you know about OceanCraft Sailboats, builder of Flicka parts and sailboats, and what we have to offer you. OceanCraft Sailboats acquired Pacific Seacraft Flicka and Orion molds, blueprints, documents and all files, which were still intact, in April of 2013. We are located in Minnesott Beach, North Carolina, not far from the home of the east coast location of Pacific Seacraft in Washington, North Carolina. We have had some lengthy conversations with persons interested in building a new Flicka, but have not finalized a deal. 4

A new Flicka seahood built by Oceancraft Sailboats. Photo: Oceancraft Sailboats © 2014

We will soon sign contracts for the lease on a 9,600 sq. ft. building located in Vandemere, North Carolina, not far from Oriental, N.C., the sailing capital of the North Carolina.

Cockpit view of a new Flicka companionway hatch with the optional teak. Photo: Oceancraft Sailboats © 2014

Main Hatch or Companionway - At this point in time, we have built numerous seahoods and companionway hatches, both with and without teak. The build is fiberglass, divinycell closed cell foam and gel coat used in the construction of the hatch. The hatch mold does have a texture on the top of it, same pattern on your decks. Either the companionway hatch or the seahood are $807.61. This includes crating & NC sales tax on materials. Customers are responsible for paying shipping. They have been shipped to Flicka owners in California, Alaska and New York City. OceanCraft Sailboats arranges shipments through U.P.S. We build a very sturdy crate from plywood and pack with foam. The crate dimensions are 41” x 37” x 7.” If you desire we can add 3/8” thick teak with black caulk to the top of your hatch. The teak does look stunning! Please add and additional $600.00 for the teak.

Port view of the Flicka companionway hatch. Photo: Oceancraft Sailboats © 2014

We have produced Sea Hoods and Hatches for boats over 33 years old with no color matching issues. We have found that the predominance of the colors were Cream and Champagne. We gel coat both the top and inside of your hatch cover. We use Spectrum Colors, St. Augustine, Florida, supplier of the Flicka gel coat and have color chips we can send you as a reference color to your Flicka. We also can make bronze parts and some very lovely custom wood parts. Please feel free to contact us at: info@oceancraftsailboats.com or simeon.brad@yahoo.com Or if you are in the area please stop by for a visit. Happy Sailing

I have been lusting over a custom stainless steel, folding ladder that I had found online by Mystic Stainless: www.mysticstainless.com/foldaway.html

This ladder can either use permanent mounts or be mounted to your genoa tracks using custom made cars that the ladder locks into. It seemed the perfect solution to meet my goals: 1. Boarding ladder should be easily removed prior to vessel transporting by trailer. 2. Should be able to be launched from either the port or starboard sides of the boat – setup depending on dockage to port or starboard. 3. Stainless steel and folding. 4. Mount/deploy close to mid-ships to enable access to boarding gate. 5. Teak steps for comfort and aesthetics. To order the customer ladder, Mystic needed the following information: 1. Measured freeboard from amidships: 24” 2. Height of stanchions: 27” 3. Dimensions of track: 1” x 1/8” with ¼” pin holes. The hole diameter is needed so the custom mounts can be locked into the track holes. Mystic determined that my Flicka requires a 48” ladder. I opted to order the teak steps uninstalled. Since the track is curved (something I realized after the first mounts arrived), I needed to determine the amount of curve over the distance that the ladder attaches to the track! This is easily computed by butting a straight edge against the track, locating the center point of the straight edge and 30

A Mystic stainless steel boarding ladder was installed on the port side of my Flicka. Photo: Daryl Clark © 2014

measuring from there to the edge of the track. My offset was ¼”. I ordered the ladder; the estimate was for about one month for delivery. It took a few weeks longer than expected, but Mystic kept me advised of component delays. When the ladder arrived towards the end of July, it was like receiving a piece of art! It truly was a thing of beauty! I was now ready to test the installation and use. I lightly sanded the teak steps to remove any sharp edges and using a drill and tap mounted them to the ladder cross arms with the screws provided. I live about 2 ½ hours away from our Flicka, so the following weekend I headed to Barkers Island Marina to install the boarding ladder. It was at that time that I realized that the track was curved; as the ladder could not rotate up/down properly! I also realized that the cockpit coaming limited where the ladder could be installed and still allow the ladder to be rotated to storage and deployed positions. After measuring closely and working with the ladder mounts; the boarding gate; and the genoa cars - I determined it was in fact workable. The last thing I wanted was to change the ability to properly setup the head sail tack angle. I was fortunate, the track was installed with just enough room to mount the ladder and still have the genoa cars work properly!

The stainless steel ladder folds up against the life lines and is quickly ready for use. Photo: Daryl Clark © 2014

I contacted Mystic Stainless from the marina and was given directions for determining the required angle; within two week or so, the updated custom mounts were delivered and I was able to complete the installation! 31 F

This small folding step has a variety of uses aboard the Flicka. Note the rope on the bottom to protect the cabin sole. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014

There is a small, versatile, and easily stored folding stool aboard my Flicka. When folded, it fits into one of my lockers onboard. It is simply made and held together with four brass door hinges. Four short sections of dowel rods are inserted into the edges of the folding base. The underside of the treads have partial thickness holes drilled in to accept the dowel rods in order to hold the treads in place. The narrower treads fit the V of the V-berth. When I built the berth I raised it two inches higher that the plans specified in order to accommodate two battery banks and a 29 gallon fresh water tank. As a result, my wife struggles a bit to climb into the berth; so I constructed this small stool for her. I tried to use it to assist our dogs when they came into the cabin, but it was too narrow. So I made two more and wider treads using the same base. Both were carpeted for traction and comfort. In addition, the stool can be used as a boarding step stool. 32

The steps makes ascending the ladder into the cockpit easier and safer. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014

Two different treads can be used depending on the task. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014

The step can also be used on the dock to step aboard. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014

The narrow treads allow use in the v-berth area. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014

The step construction is simple and it stows easily in a locker. Photo: Bob Collier © 2014