This particular Flicka 20 model was made a few years ago at a cost of $2,200, including shipping. His models are popular and prized, orders are placed on his production schedule and several months may be required for him to begin your Flicka 20 model.
This Flicka 20 is built at a scale of 1/2” to one foot. Photo: Peter Kunst © 2020
A Flicka 20 model might be the perfect birthday or Christmas present for your favorite Flicka 20 captain. This is especially true for the colder climate captains were winter forces them and their sailboats indoors for months on end. 5 F
Approaching the marina on the Columbia River aboard s/y EARENDIL, Winds were against us and I didn't fancy tacking under the bridge, so we dropped sail and motored in. Photo: Brandon Tattersall © 2020
With the wind on the nose, tacking through the Hood River Bridge wasn’t a good idea. Opened in 1924, the mile long bridge has a lift section with a 57 foot clearance closed and a span of 246 feet. The bridge is 169 miles form the mouth of the Columbia River and above the Bonneville Lock and Dam. Photo: Brandon Tattersall © 2020
We took s/y EARENDIL down to Newport, OR for the solar eclipse in 2018. That was a bit of an adventure. Two adults and three kids lived aboard for four days. Try that on any other twenty-foot sailboat! My favorite thing about the Flicka is that we could take her to the adventure, not just stay in our local area. Sailing to Newport wasn't practical, so being able to tow her down was great. Photo: Brandon Tattersall © 2020 Flicka Friends
The mast step was flat on the deck so this was the first indication something was wrong aboard s/y ARIELLE, but I didn't know what. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
I noticed my plastic hatch wasn't closing correctly and at first I thought it was a defective hatch. The back hinges were broken. After inspection, I found that the deck had sunk and so did my heart! Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
The straight edge is showing the extent of the problem. Another indication of the problem was that my Stays and Shrouds kept getting loose. Water must have entered the fiberglass/wood arch that gives the Flicka its wide-open interior. At this point I had to pull the boat and take it home to figure out what was the next step. The beauty of the Flicka is you can take her home. I searched the web and found a few other Flickas have had this problem. Most were corrected by a center mast support pole. This was not an option since I would have had to dance around the center pole to use my porta-potty. Though it might not be so bad to have a pole to hang onto for support in a rough sea! Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
Here is what that glassed-in arch looks like with a temporary 2x3 on a scissor jack to hold it back in place. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
Next, took a cut-off wheel to the outside fiberglass encasement and here is what I found. The wood was actually dripping with water. No surprise really. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
There is a block of some sort of hard putty to support the end of the wood. I managed to destroy one side before I understood what it was for. I preserved the starboard side better. After the new arch was in place, I used epoxy putty to rebuild the port side. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
I preserved the starboard side better. After the new arch was in place, I used epoxy putty to rebuild the port side. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
Next step was to build a form to bend the new arch. If I had it to do over, I am not so sure I would go to all this trouble but instead just use the roof itself as a form, bending each arch board into place using the scissor jack and glue. I used cardboard to make the pattern then built this arch. This was not easy! Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
Using red oak (white oak would have been better but this was what was available to me) I kerfed the board on my table saw so it would bend. Then bent it to the form. I was hoping that by gluing two more on top the curve would hold. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
I tested a small sample filling the groves with epoxy putty but the putty shrunk when dried and caused it to spring back so I just glued the next board on top. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
And the second, then the third. Again, hoping each glued board would hold the shape. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
It did! Pretty much anyway. I did have about a 1/4” spring back which wasn't an issue. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
The next step was to cut the ends at the perfect angle to match those end blocks mentioned earlier. A scary procedure since you only get one chance! Then jack the unit into place and glue it to the roof. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
Building the knee supports turned out to be the most difficult part. There are so many darn angles to account for! Again, with a lot of cardboard patterns using trial and error. They are bolted to the side walls with stainless steel lags and fender washers from the outside. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
The faceplate curves on the fore and aft were easy to pattern and that is what made the arch super strong! A few nails and glue there too. The faceplate only covers the first two arch boards leaving a space for antenna and mast light wires and a place for the ceiling panels to lay on top. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
While I was at it I added a small arch to the hatch cutout frame just because I could. Fortunately the plywood deck was not damaged or wet. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
The block under the mast step was a bit of a concern. It was not rotten but it did show a little water damage and some punky areas. Since there is so much weight on it I decided to drill holes clear through to the new arch. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
The six dowels were glued in place, and then glassed. This would take the weight straight to the arch. The dowels are directly under the mounting bolts. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
I took out the stand up blocks for the halyards and bought this base place and blocks from Dwyer mast. The less holes in my deck the better! I also moved the thru deck fittings so they do not fall directly over the arch. If they leak now I will know. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
Even though this arch is made of oak and not teak I used Zar Premium Teak stain from Ace Hardware and it came out to be a perfect match! Now the question is: do I install that little side support spindle or not. I doubt it's needed since this new arch is so much stronger than the old. I had to make new overhead panels around the arch. They are vinyl glued to a flexible Formica backing. The roof is insulated with that foiled bubble wrap stuff. The panels are then screwed or Velcro to the roof. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
Two months later it’s done! And yes, the spindle post went back in and I'm glad to have it's support not so much for the arch support but for the “me” support in rough seas! Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
After a wonderful day of sailing, s/y ARIELLE is back to her mooring in Port San Luis, California. She now has a new mast support arch after two months of what was to become a major repair. Photo: Jack Russell © 2020
I don't think build the form would be used again. As long as you kept those side blocks intact I believe you could cut the boards exact, then jack up and glue each one in it's place. The first board butts against the blocks then the next two will overlap the blocks to the sidewalls. That would have made this much easier and cheaper if it would have worked. Someone else will have to determine whether it will. Total cost of this repair was about $750 and that included a new $300 plastic hatch. All said and done, it wasn't so bad to do this repair. I know that s/y ARIELLE will now be sailing with a new caretaker long after I am gone.
The former owner left his Flicka with a relative after moving to Poland. HABIBI was found in an alley. Photo: Michael Connolly © 2020
HABIBI was moved to a boat yard to begin preparations for launching. Photo: Michael Connolly © 2020
Refitting HABIBI was a battle, but worth the effort in the end. Photo: Michael Connolly © 2020
Back in the water again, HABIBI is waiting for the mast, boom, and sails. Photo: Michael Connolly © 2020
Sunset colors around s/y GOOD NEWS in Alameda, California. Photo: Ariu Levi © 2020
Boat maintenance includes varnishing the teak coaming, handrails, and eyebrows. Photo: Ariu Levi © 2020
GOOD NEWS at the docks, ready for another trip on the San Francisco Bay. Photo: Ariu Levi © 2020
s/y MIRA JANE (1980 PSC # 126) from last year on an overnight to Falmouth, MA. Photo: Lynne Silva © 2020
The interior of s/y MIRA JANE. Photo: Lynne Silva © 2020
The electrical panel, stereo, and radio installation aboard s/ y MIRA JANE. Photo: Lynne Silva © 2020
The white hull was painted blue. This is an “after” photo of my Flicka s/y AMNESIA (1978 PSC # 9). Photo: Jon Unruh © 2020
Flicka s/y AMNESIA (1978 PSC # 9). Note the dorade on the bow and the Bruce and CQR dual anchors. Photo: Jon Unruh © 2020
The “after” shot of the interior. Photo: Jon Unruh © 2020
Some T-L-C was needed. Photo: Jon Unruh © 2020