Spring 2015

ABOUT FLICKA FRIENDS Flicka Friends is a newsletter that is written specifically for the people who own, crew aboard, or are interested in the Flicka, a twenty-foot sailing vessel designed by Bruce P. Bingham, N.A. Based on the Newport Boats of Block Island Sound, this little ship has been built from various materials from the 1970’s until 2002. This includes Flickas constructed from plans obtained directly from Bruce’s California office. About 400 sets of plans were sold. Designer Bruce P. Bingham also said that plans were sold to many sailors, including those in Flickas in New Zealand, Australia, and Sweden.

The digital world has filtered into many aspects of boating. Photo: Tom Davison © 2015

There are equipment manuals for my Garmin 441s Chart Plotter, Icom VHF radio, Lavo marine head, and others. References include a Over the last year or two, I’ve noticed that more Yanmar Engine Operation Guide, parts Catalog, magazine and publications are being produced and service manual. in downloadable forms in one way or another. Some of the publications that come to mind The only downside of the e-publications is that include Waggoner Cruising Guide, Salish Sea you are placing everything on a single device. If Pilot, Good Old Boat, Small Craft Advisor, and the iPad goes down for any reason, you are dead Practical Sailor. There are many more. Some are in the water in terms of the information you might need. Having multiple methods of subscription based, while others are free. charging you computer gizmos is a good idea as Web based marketing is the standard today and well. Some might argue that old school is better. you can find some great sites about cruising, A paper chart doesn’t require any power except such as the Dreamspeaker Guide series. maybe a flashlight. s/y BLUE SKIES

Businesses are moving toward electronic Carrying a few printed references might be publications as well. How many of us have prudent as would be having a laptop with the electronic copies of the equipment manuals files as well. Yanmar engine manuals and parts aboard? The printed version can take up quite of catalogs are two examples of this. Tide charts bit of space. It would be difficult to find a are another example of something that needs to company that doesn’t have a catalog, manual, or be carried aboard. While there are plenty of tide apps, a current atlas and tables are vital and parts list in PDF form these days. have information that these apps lack. Some The ability to provide everyone with information require an Internet connection, which is another while eliminating printing and mailing costs limitation. simply works. This also allows keeping the information up to date, something that a printed When Flicka Friends was started, it was a subscription based photocopied newsletter. catalog could never do. Looking back through the index, I found that the Carrying catalogs is also difficult. My iPad has change from photocopy issues to PDF files many as well, including Blue Sea Systems, Sail- happened in the summer of 2001. That was Rite, West Marine, and others. when the newsletter became free. The electronic versions of magazines can now be Eventually, all of the issues were scanned into easily carried. My iPad contains (of course) all PDF files and all are available on the the Flicka Friends issues, the Blue Skies Issues, Flicka20.com website. This summer will mark Practical Sailor, Northwest Yachting, Good Old the 20th year of publication for Flicka Friends and the 15 years as an electronic publication. Boat, Small Craft Advisor, and many more. Flicka Friends

Nor’Star built a number of hulls and some were completed by Westerly Marine. The manufacturer of the bulk of the class is Pacific Seacraft who built 434 hulls in California. Oceancraft Sailboats is now the manufacturer of the Flicka and they are located in North Carolina. You can contact them at: Oceancraft Sailboats Flicka Friends is published on a quarterly basis: with issues being posted to the Internet in January, April, July, and October. Your articles and photographs are welcomed and appreciated. Two Decades - This July will mark the twentieth year of Flicka Friend publication. Started by Dennis Pratt in the summer of 1995, this July issue will be the 64th issue of the newsletter. You can download the current issue as well as the back issues of Flicka Friends from the Flicka Home Page: www.flicka20.com Editor:

My thanks to everyone that has take the time to sent an photo or write an article about their Flicka for Flicka Friends.

ARTICLES & PHOTOS Flicka Friends is always in need of articles and photographs for publication. Please consider sending something for the next issue of the newsletter. Thank you! 3 F

After a complete refit that lasted years, 4ELSA will be launched in May. Photo: Ian Williams © 2015

After being rescued, refitted, and restored s/y 4ELSA is nearly ready. Photo: Ian Williams © 2015

ETOILE is featured in a Flicka Maintenance story in this issue. Photo: Roger Weinheimer © 2015

The vent for the head and the engine are located on the starboard coaming. Photo: Roger Weinheimer © 2015

Transom view of s/y NOMAD with her neighbor resting against the starboard side of the hull. Photo: Bill Hogan © 2015

So I've finally got some photos of Nomad down in La Paz after the storm. As you can see, her mast was snapped off at the cross-trees by the mast of the boat next to her when it was blown off its stands. All told however, she pulled through amazingly well. Her mainsail is still neatly flaked down, covered, and lashed to the boom. The Bimini survived. The solar panels are still lashed securely to the stern pulpit rails. All of her antennas are still up, as is the weather station. 6

Other than the broken mast (which will no doubt be an expensive fix) and the need to re-rig her, the damage appears cosmetic - not much more than scrapes and scratches. Well, that and it appears we no longer have a barbecue lid! She is one of the few boats in that yard that weren't blown over, even after the collision with her neighbor that broke her mast. Flicka's are very tough boats. If the other boat hadn’t hit her, she'd have been unfazed by that killer storm. Flicka Friends F

Port side view of s/y NOMAD’s chain plates, ports, and hull. Photo: Bill Hogan © 2015

Approaching the start in very light air, the captain and crew of s/y DART focus on the line. Photo: Gill Outerbridge © 2015

main, a 110% jib, a 135 genoa, an asymmetrical The Flicka would be a prefect sailboat for the America’s Cup as it is something that the spinnaker, and a downwind spinnaker. masses could afford. It would bring sailing to a Last month, Gill Outerbridge sent an article Brand new Flickas would be build by new generation of sailors and Flicka based and some photos of her Flicka s/y DART. Oceancraft Sailboats in North Carolina (it is America’s Cup fleets would abound. When I responded, I asked a question about the America’s Cup after all) and ten identical If you check the history of the Flicka, you will the America’s Cup since it will be in Bermuda hulls would be prepared. find a story from Bruce about sailing around in 2017. Each Flicka hull would be required to be Long Island, one that the Flicka did very well I wondered about the choice of sailboats for identical to the others as is possible. Crew and in. the next race series. What would be the sailing hull selection would be random. Crew A would craft that would ply the waters around sail Flicka 1 on the first day, then Flicka 2 on All kidding aside, I’d expect the 2017 Bermuda? How would all of the meetings and the second, and so on. If there were ten crews, America’s Cup racers to be very fast and quite then ten Flickas would be used through the different from the Flicka. With the speed of legal wrangling affect the design selected? the catamarans, the races will be exciting and series. Maybe when all of the lawyer-based be over in very little time. calculations are completed, the resulting hull I suppose that that down side of all this is that design that would require a hull with a PHRF the existing Flicka captains would have even Hopefully, Gill will be able to provide us with of 298. Since the Flicka might only match this more people stopping by to ask: “Is that a some photos of the America’s Cup. I’m sure that watching the series in Bermuda’s Great Bruce P. Bingham’s design would be used for Flicka?” Sound from a Flicka would be great fun. the 2017 America’s Cup. The press would interview Bermuda based Scheduled for June 2017, the race is just over Next, the crew and sail details would need to Flicka captain Gill Outerbridge and ask all two years from now. Hopefully, the races will be sorted out. The crew would be limited to sorts of questions about the sailboat, the be decided on the water and not with challenges! three people with a sail selection of a full design. s/y BLUE SKIES

Winter 2014-2015 When Will Spring Arrive?

Like many of us, s/y GOLDEN CROWN (#242) waited a long time for spring to arrive. Photo: Morris London © 2015

This image of s/y GOLDEN CROWN makes you wish for a warm fire and a hot drink. Photo: Morris London © 2015

Motor and Teak Decking Building RED RASCAL Part Nine of Twelve

The completed teak deck of s/y RED RASCAL after oiling. Photo: Bob Collier © 2015

For auxiliary propulsion, I decided to explore the possibility of an electric motor. This would not only be quiet, but devoid of fuel smell. An electric motor is simple. In its basic state just connect the plus and the minus leads and the motor springs to life. For long distance travel, one can carry a couple of solar panels (which I have) and recharge the batteries: an unlimited supply of “fuel!” Also, one could substitute the battery weight for some of the ballast. The Flicka requires 1,750 pounds of lead ballast, so my two banks of batteries (three each) at 75 pounds apiece (AGMs) amount to 450 pounds for six plus one house battery for a total of 525 pounds. I put in 1,500 pounds of lead ballast and with the lead batteries equals 2,025 pounds. The naval architect, Ted Brewer, in a review of the Flicka commented that it was a very good boat for cruising, but he felt that it would be even better if it had two improvements: (1) 10

have a gaff rig, which is an option for the production Flicka and (2) increase the ballast to 2,000 pounds. Installation - Per Bruce Bingham’s instructions, I had drilled a 1 ½” hole for the drive shaft and ordered from ELCO (Electric Launch Company). But, when the motor and accessories arrived from ELCO, the shaft log (hole for the shaft tube) was to be 1 ¾” diameter! Man, does anything go according to plans? Initially, drilling that shaft log hole was a bear to drill perfectly straight! So, I re-drilled the hole from 1 ½” up to 1 ¾.” If you’ve ever redrilled a hole to make it bigger with a hole saw it is very difficult to do without some sort of guide to keep the drill in alignment. I rigged up a rod that I attached to the holesaw. I made a cork-like device for the inboard end that plugged into the original hole. Then drilled using the rod to keep the hole-saw steady and in a straight line. Once the shaft log was re-drilled, one inserted the shaft tube. This is a carbon tube through

which the drive shaft rotates---the cutlass bearing holds the drive shaft in the center of this tube and allows water to enter the shaft tube to cool the rotating drive shaft. The stuffing box or gland is then attached to the drive shaft. The shaft is then passed through a bushing that holds it on the inboard end of the drive shaft. The shaft is finally attached to a pulley. The motor’s pulley and an idler pulley are all three connected by twin belts---the idler puller just serves to tighten the belts. The motor is a 3 HP that according to a ruleof-thumb is equivalent to a 9 HP diesel. One can question this “rule-of thumb,” but I know that this motor will drive my Flicka all around the harbor and marina as well as in the ocean without a problem. The motor is only 12” long (14” overall counting the pulley) and 7” wide. The electrical connections in the locker may look a bit complex, but the ELCO company provided very clear instructions for the connections (e.g.: “connect A1 lead to A1 on the control panel”, etc.). Flicka Friends F

The batteries are secured in the bilge beneath the V-berth. Shore power charges all six batteries and the house battery as well. All of the wiring can be seen looking down into the starboard hatch in the cockpit. The wiring is on the main bulkhead located between the cabin and the cockpit. A throttle is above this area alongside the starboard cockpit hatch cover. To start the motor all you have to do is turn a key and push the throttle forward or backward and off you go!

Getting ready to drill the propeller shaft into my Flicka. Photo: Bob Collier © 2015

Deck Installation - A batten was used to determine the correct camber to the deck for the fore deck. Then full beams for the fore deck and half beams for the sides were inserted into the sheer clamp, providing strong support. Once the beams were in place, a sub-deck of plywood was fastened over them. Scrap wood was used to determine the correct angle to cut the teak planks to integrate with the center King plank at the bow. The washers are used as spacers when bending the teak and to hold the planks down tightly until the 5200 adhesive dried. The planks had to be bent to conform to the curvature of the boat. This took nearly all my clamps. Once in place the planks were held with screws and large “auto” washers until the glue dried. The screws were not in the plank but in the spaces between planks (a technique that was devised by the Gougeon brothers).

A drill extension, hole-saw, rod, and “cork” was used to drill the propeller shaft. Photo: Bob Collier © 2015

After the glue dried each plank was masked off prior to the caulking. In the traditional method of planking, and prior to strong adhesives such as 5200, each plank was screwed down. This involved thousands of screws. Then, without masking, caulking was done followed by heavy sanding, a tedious and messy job. The Gougeon method has been proven to be successful. The masking tape was removed before teak oil application. The last step was oiling the decking. Well, you suffered enough so I’ll sign off until the next installment when we’ll take up building the TRUNK HOUSE, HATCHES, RUDDER, and TILLER.

The driveshaft and cutlass bearing installation. Photo: Bob Collier © 2015

A batten was used to determine the correct deck camber. Photo: Bob Collier © 2015

The instructions made this all make sense. Photo: Bob Collier © 2015

Next, full beams were added to match the camber. Photo: Bob Collier © 2015

The electric motor in place aboard s/y RED RASCAL. Photo: Bob Collier © 2015

The beams were covered with plywood. Photo: Bob Collier © 2015

Above: Clamps and washer were used to place the planks. Photo: Bob Collier © 2015

Upper Right: The planks were glued and screwed down. Photo: Bob Collier © 2015

Right: Taping the deck before adding the chalking. Photo: Bob Collier © 2015

The finished planking on the transom of s/y RED RASCAL. Photo: Bob Collier © 2015

Sailing s/y ZANZIBAR in the Manitou Passage of Northern Lake Michigan. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

mainland of Michigan in Leelanau County. The town of Leland is a historic fishing village on the Carp River with a Harbor of Refuge Marina located on the mainland side of the passage.

It's way below zero out here on Old Mission Peninsula tonight. The snow's blowing, the bays are frozen, and I'm thinking about a trip to Leland I made in ZANZIBAR last summer. Since Leland is about fifty-five miles away, I planned on taking two days to get around the Four days on the water took me out of Grand Leelanau Peninsula with a stop over in Traverse Bay into Lake Michigan. The Northport Marina. I knew about Barbs Bakery Manitou Passage is a section of Lake Michigan from previous trips and just couldn't pass it between the Manitou islands and the by. 14

The 107th running of the Chicago-to-Mackinac Sailboat Race would at the same time as my trip. I thought it might be fun to see if I could catch some of the boats passing through the Manitou Passage between Leland and the Manitou Islands. Day 1 - Northport I packed up ZANZIBAR and left Traverse City for Leland. The destination for my first day on the water would be Northport Harbor twenty-five miles north. Flicka Friends F

My friend (editor of Flicka Friends) Tom says I'm a “credit card” sailor-and that's just about right. I like day sailing from marina to marina and spending a little time exploring the towns along Lake Michigan. Day 2 - Leland The next day I got an early start (after a donut and coffee at Barb's of course). This leg of the trip would be about thirty miles. Passing Gull Island and coming around the end of Leelanau Peninsula I was looking forward to seeing the Northport lighthouse but, as is usually the case with lighthouses, I had to stay so far off shore that I needed to use the binoculars to get much of a look at it. After passing Cathead Point and turning south the wind died down and suddenly there were hundreds of black flies buzzing around the boat. I rolled up a magazine and the war was on. Then for some reason, as quick as they came they were gone. I continued following the coast down to the Whaleback and Leland. After radioing in for a The trip was in northwest lower Michigan on Grand Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan. slip, I was directed to number 33. After getting Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015 settled in I bought a fly swatter at the Mercantile and then met my wife who drove over from Traverse City for a nice dinner at the Blue Bird Inn. Another good restaurant in town is the Cove where I got a great picture of a guy enjoying their signature drink-The Chubby Mary that is a bloody Mary with a smoked chub “standing proud.” Leland Harbor has a wide variety of watercraft. There are houseboats, go-fast cigarette style speedboats, large cruisers, sailboats, tour boats, classic Great Lakes fishing tugs, charter fishing boats, and open fishing boats. Some of the boaters are locals to the area, Michigan, and the Great Lakes; others are traveling much greater distances, including those completing the Great Loop of the Eastern United States. Day 3 - Suttons Bay After a good night's sleep on the boat I got up early and walked around town taking pictures in the early morning light. One of my favorites was the Huntington Bank, which was located in a old Victorian house. Back at the Marina I cashed out, topped off the tank, and headed out into the Lake to start my trip back to T.C. This would be another two day trip with the first leg of about forty miles ending at Suttons Bay. I got into Suttons Bay quite late and just had time for a quick dinner at Boones’ Old Tyme Inn before taking in a movie at the Bay

The four day route for my trip to Leland, Michigan. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

After a day on the water, s/y ZANZIBAR was docked in Northport Harbor. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

ZANZIBAR in slip # 33 in Leland, Michigan. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

Below Lake Leelanau and a twelve foot dam, the Carp River flows into the Leland Harbor and then Lake Michigan. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

Evening at Leland Harbor. Dinner is just two blocks away from the docks. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

Historic Fishtown lines the Carp River. This is still a working harbor for fishing, tour boats, and boats on the Great Loop. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

A collection of fishing floats in the attic of a shop in Fishtown. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

The Riverside Inn is one of many places in Leland that are from an earlier time. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

Many businesses use old houses in this small little town. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

This windvane shows the fishing heritage of the harbor. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

Continued from Page 15 Theatre. (There's that credit card sailing thing Tom teases me about). It had been a long day out on the Lake and I was falling asleep at the movie so as soon as it was over I headed back to the boat and crashed. Day 4 - Traverse City I left Suttons Bay around sun rise and since the last leg of the trip home was only about fifteen miles I decided to sail around the east side of Power Island and follow the coast of Old Mission Peninsula down. There's lot of beautiful scenery along this route. Back home, I unpacked the boat and reflected on what a nice trip it had been. Last October, I passed the stewardship of 387 to a gentleman named Ken who will be sailing her on Lake Superior. I know she's in good hands with Ken and hopefully we will be reading about their adventures this summer. Now I'm remembering this trip on a cold winter night with some feeling of melancholy; it was my last aboard s/y KAWABUNGA.

Main Street is also lined with small shops. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

Above the dam in Leland, the Carp River is lined with homes and boathouses. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

Leland has a wide variety of watercraft: tour boats, amphicars, fishing tugs, and boats on the Great Loop of the Eastern U.S. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

Heading out of Leland Harbor into the Manitou Passage for the trip back to Grand Traverse Bay and home. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

Heading north in the Manitou Passage. Good Harbor Bay is astern and Pyramid Point is in the distance. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

Entering Suttons Bay aboard s/y ZANZIBAR. BEN MAIN, Jr. is just ahead to starboard. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

Motoring s/y ZANZIBAR in West Bay on the last day of the trip. My route would pass east of Power Island. Photo: Randy Richardson © 2015

Tucker, my Jack Russel Terrier and my Flicka s/y DART. Photo: Gill Outerbridge © 2015

For a trip up the Hudson River and into Canada, I had s/y DART shipped across from Bermuda to New Jersey. Before setting off with my Jack Russell terrier Tucker, I wanted reliability, safety and comfort. Since the trip would include the canals of New York and Canada with many low bridges, the sailing rig was left at home. A friend rigged a short mast which lead to a lot of inquires as to where I stowed the extra twenty feet. The shorter mast provided a useful attachment for the wind scoop, flags, burgees, and the tiny dinghy job for emergencies. With this smaller sail DART would sail at one and one-half knots. For lower bridges, the short mast could be lowered in only a minute. 24

I installed a new Yamaha 9.9 four stroke outboard and fitted an eleven-gallon fuel tank in the cockpit locker. It was a bit of a squeeze but worth knowing I had plenty of fuel on hand. But not all marinas were thrilled when I ‘topped up’ at a cost of $5. The white bimini was a cast off that I found laying about in the local boatyard but served well for the first year. In the blue bag on the foredeck I stowed my Sea Scamp folding dinghy. It was a challenge to unfold so I left it home the second year. I had a Force 10 two burner propane stove which fit the cut-out exactly and worked brilliantly. When not in use it was topped with an old restaurant sign that I tiled. When using the stove I rested the tiled top on the fold out counter on the left.

You can see the custom cutouts for the china behind the stovetop. I still had some of the original ‘Wayside’ china and preferred to use glasses for wine. I had already removed the mattress in the quarter berth and used two large laundry hampers for storage. I added a ‘headboard’ to the v-berth, which made a comfortable backrest for the settee. You can see Tucker’s bed under the v-berth. Everything was stored in baskets on the shelves. The TV worked in most places even if I had to stick the antennae up through the fore hatch. The previous owner built in the v-berth locker, which held clothing, bedding towels etc. and an iron! Flicka Friends F

Five fenders on each side were necessary! Photo: Gill Outerbridge © 2015

I had two anchors ready to launch (15 pounds and 25 pounds), but only used them once preferring to be ashore every day on the side of the lock or at a marina. During the second year I treated myself to a new custom bimini while staying at Winter Harbour Marina. It is designed to provide shelter while at the helm and also when opening the sliding hatch. I dropped it back out of the way for negotiating locks and docks. My wraith tiller master steered more accurately than me and was most useful… Tucker on watch. DART is a 1979 model and I have owned her for 25 years. My homeport is in Bermuda. My book “Going About” is now only available on Amazon.

My short tiller with herb garden on top of the propane tank cover in the cockpit. Photo: Gill Outerbridge © 2015

Curtains and flowers of course for my cottage Flicka. Photo: Gill Outerbridge © 2015

Tucker aboard the dinghy at the dock. Photo: Gill Outerbridge © 2015

Tucker on watch with the autopilot in use. Photo: Gill Outerbridge © 2015

The galley aboard my Flicka: s/y DART. Photo: Gill Outerbridge © 2015

Tucker’s bed is under the v-berth. Photo: Gill Outerbridge © 2015

Two anchors on the bow of s/y DART. Photo: Gill Outerbridge © 2015

The Yanmar inboard diesel engine aboard my Flicka s/y ETIORE. Photo: Roger Weinheimer © 2015

While clearing a blockage in vent hose for my holding tank in my Flicka, I noticed that the standard cooling water connection from the thermostat to the exhaust manifold had much longer hoses that the factory drawings. Following the hoses from the engine, they snaked along the starboard side of the engine and through the panel next to it. The hoses continued upward next to the batteries. Behind the batteries, the two hoses entered a brass loop and a single hose continued upward and aft in the coaming to a vent that exited through the fiberglass to the outside. What I could not see was a small valve that was hidden under the single hose on the top of the vented loop. This is where a small joker valve is located and it is the reason for these 28

hoses and the vent. The reason for these hoses is simple. Because the engine is below the waterline of the Flicka, the engine cooling system must have an anti-siphon system. Otherwise, water might flow back into the engine preventing use and causing serious damage. Theory of Operation The theory of operation is that until the engine reaches operating temperature, the thermostat is closed. Raw water is diverted from pump through directly to the anti-siphon loop, on to the exhaust mixing elbow and out the exhaust. When the engine reaches operating temperature, the thermostat opens and enables cooling water to enter the engine block and cylinder head cooling jackets. Either way, the joker valve closed to allow the water to flow out of the sailboat via the exhaust system. When the engine is not in

operation, the joker valve opens to prevent a siphon from pulling water through the exhaust into the engine. The additional hoses, the vented loop, and the joker valve are required because the engine is lower than the waterline. Disassembly The hardest part of disassembly is removing a hose that has molded to its fitting. To pry the hose off, I used the only thing I own older than the boat, a Craftsman flat blade screwdriver. It took some patience and a few choice grunts. The vent hose from joker valve to the vent fitting in the coaming looks like 1″ OD and 5/8″ ID standard automotive heater hose. The hose runs about 2 to 2-1/2 feet from the valve to the vent fitting in the coaming. The same tool worked fine for removing the two hoses that connect the valve to mixing elbow and thermostat on the 1GM10 diesel. These hoses look like 1/2″ ID. Flicka Friends F

Starboard winch backing plate. Holding tank vent. Vent of auxiliary engine anti-siphon loop Starboard jib sheet clear backing plate. Holding tank deck pump-out. Photo: Roger Weinheimer © 2015

Two hoses connect the engine to the vented loop. Photo: Roger Weinheimer © 2015

The hoses continue along the starboard engine compartment. Photo: Roger Weinheimer © 2015

Three hoses connect to the vented loop next to the battery. Photo: Roger Weinheimer © 2015

The joker valve is underneath the top hose. Photo: Roger Weinheimer © 2015

The vented loop without the top hose. Photo: Roger Weinheimer © 2015

E. Cap Nut - Stainless cap nut with similar Description of Parts size hole in the center. The cap nut has an Once removed from the hoses and lazarette, a internal recess in which the diaphragm 17mm open-end wrench removes the nuts fits nicely, and the washer holds in place. from the brass casting. The joker valve assembly consists of the following: The small vent in the joker valve is what keeps A. Vented Loop - A brass casting of a water from returning to the engine and filling u-shaped pipe intersecting a short, the cylinder. The joker valve breaks the siphon straight pipe. An eighth inch diameter and protects your inboard diesel engine. hole hydraulically joins the U-and Venting through the coaming places the vent straight-pipe. The inside of the s t r a i g h t as high as possible in the Flicka. pipe is threaded at its open end and accepts a compound assembly of threaded When cooling water flows through the engine, pipes and nuts. it leaves the engine and makes this loop B. Joker Valve Body - A pipe nipple of through the hoses before returning to the compound material with integral nut. One engine exhaust where the cooling water joins side appears to be a brass nipple mated to the gases from the engine. Both end up in the a stainless nut and nipple. The two sides exhaust lift and then leave the sailboat of the nipple are separated by solid metal through the engine exhaust located on the except for a 1/8″ hole in the center that transom. hydraulically joins the two sides. Now that I knew what this was, the most C. Brass Washer - A copper or brass obvious question was did it work properly. washer? Its purpose appears to be holding Access was easy and a bit of effort was the diaphragm in place. required to get everything apart. D. Diaphragm - Delicate, flexible, rubber diaphragm of convex-concave shape with As it turned out, there was nothing wrong with an off-center hole slightly larger than the joker valve or its vent hose aside from minor tarnish and scaling. 1/32″ diameter. 30

Replacement Parts Looking for a replacement vented loop was easy. The only problem is that the current part is manufactured slightly different. Rather than having two holes on either side of the loops for screws or bolts, there was only one located in the center of the vented loop. Any replacement would mean drilling another hole. Considering how long this has been in place and it still worked perfectly, replacement of the vented loop doesn’t seem likely. The Joker valve diaphragm would be the part that could need replacement. My joker valve is located in the starboard lazarette. It is mounted by self-tapping screws to the forward vertical surface of the lazarette. It is next to the black plastic battery box. While the vent in most Flickas is placed in the starboard coaming, you can find a few with the vent in the starboard side of the hull just below the gunnel. As it turned out, there was nothing wrong with the joker valve or its vent hose aside from minor tarnish and scaling. After cleaning, everything was reassembled using the original parts. Flicka Friends F

Vented Loop. Joker valve Body. Joker valve metal washer Joker valve. Joker valve nut.

The upper hose hides the joker valve. Photo: Roger Weinheimer © 2015

A 7 mm wrench is needed for removal. Photo: Roger Weinheimer © 2015

The joker valve nut, diaphragm, and washer, Photo: Roger Weinheimer © 2015

Flicka Profile: `978 1978 Pacific Seacraft Flicka # 53

Sailing just offshore of Morro Rock aboard s/y GOOD NEWS. Photo: Marie Sargent © 2015

Flicka time! A great afternoon sail aboard s/y GOOD NEWS. Photo: Marie Sargent © 2015

Another perfect day on the water aboard a Flicka. Photo: Marie Sargent © 2015

A whale just off the bow of s/y GOOD NEWS. Photo: Marie Sargent © 2015

GOOD NEWS at the dock in Lake Tahoe Photo: Marie Sargent © 2015

GOOD NEWS and a rainbow near Morro Rock. Photo: Marie Sargent © 2015

Dad with s/y GOOD NEWS in Morro Bay. Photo: Marie Sargent © 2015

GOOD NEWS docked in Morro Bay, California. Photo: Marie Sargent © 2015

The interior of Pacific Seacraft Flicka # 53. Photo: Marie Sargent © 2015

GOOD NEWS at the docks on Lake Tahoe. Photo: Marie Sargent © 2015

Enjoying the Pacific Ocean near Morro Bay. Photo: Marie Sargent © 2015