The hull number of my Pacific Seacraft Flicka is # 79. Flicka is, of course, the name of the class of boats, but the name seemed so appropriate that I adopted it, personalizing it as FLICKA of ST. CROIX. Tuesday, March 9 This was our first trip to the British Virgin Islands in a number of years. We left the Salt River Marina in St. Croix at 1100 on March 9, 1999. On board with me, to do all the hard work, was my son Phil. We cleared the green entrance buoy at 1120. I am glad the buoy is there. It is privately maintained and it sank recently. It marks a narrow pass through a surf covered reef. We were under sail with the motor off when we cleared the buoy. It was sunny with the wind East at fifteen knots. We were close hauled. During the afternoon, the wind veered about ten degrees. With two tacks offshore of about one half hour each, we were able to reach the dock at Buck Island which is off the east coast of St. Croix. We dropped anchor and Phil went swimming. He was the first to use the new boarding ladder, just installed. He said the water was cold but he stayed in. Meantime, the wind had gone down. The hand-held anemometer read eight to twelve, but the built-in anemometer still said fifteen....I’m afraid it is stuck. After all, it has been on duty for ten years.
We upped sail rounding Ram Head at 0930. The wind in the anchorage was five to six knots, outside it was Southeast right to ten knots. We suffered two knock-downs as we rounded the end of Great Thatch, then the wind became six to eight knots. We reached the main harbor on Jost Vandyke at 1230 and the anchorage at 1255. We went ashore to clear in, since the British Virgin Islands is a foreign country. I had forgotten to bring my passport and expected they would give me a hard time, but no, they accepted my drivers license. I had a feeling that they were more interested in my money than my citizenship. Surprisingly, the currency used is American. They charged me $18.00. I thought that a bit steep, but felt better when immigration only charged me twenty cents for the paper. One the way back to the boat, we stopped to get ice at a meticulous place with ice making machine but nobody there. Another customer said you help yourself and then go up to the house to pay for it. Phil went up. There, he met an old lady in a rocker. She pointed to a wallet on the table and told him to make change himself. This could only happen on a small island with less than two hundred residents.
Wednesday, March 10 We were off the Buck Island Reef under full sail by 0900. The wind was Northeast at ten to twelve, sunny. We were heading for St. John, thirty-one miles distant. At 1300, the wind back so we could just make Ram Head. We put into Salt Pond Bay and picked up a National Parks mooring at 1600. Thirty-one miles in seven hours, the speed between the four and five knots that we usually average.
We went ashore to Foxy’s for dinner. It’s the thing to do on Jost Vandyke. I had shrimp, big and lots of them, jazzed up with spices. Phil had chicken poli. The bill with the tip was $69.00. Years ago, Foxy only served hamburgers at a reasonable price, but times have changed. The atmosphere was not as lively as it used to be and we left at 2000. They now have a new maitre d’, a function Foxy used to perform himself and a dock for his customers which didn’t exist before. Phil counted sixty-seven sailboats and two powerboats anchored in the harbor, a cruise ship catamaran, two cruise ships and two four-masted schooners outside.
We were off under power at 0905. The wind was light, South by East, sunny. We passed through Thatch Island Cut at 1015. Sails up by 1130 with the wind Southeast at ten to thirteen knots. The wind dropped at 1600 as we rounded the end of Beef Island under power and picked up a private mooring whose owner, we were assured, was away. This was a bonanza as the moorings for rent were $20.00 a night. We were now at Marina Cay, almost a microscopic island. Ashore, we bought drinking water for $3.75 a gallon. A cold shower for two and a half minutes cost $1.00. Saturday March 13 We took on 17 gallons of water in the water tanks for $2.38. We were off by 0940. The wind was light. The course to Baths on Virgin Gorda was 090 degrees. We tried to get a weather forecast from V. I. radio in St. Thomas, but apparently the distance was too great. We picked up a mooring at the Baths at 1050. There was too much surf to land a dinghy on the beach, so Phil swam in. He followed the trail through the house-sized boulders that make up the Baths. The wind dropped at 1350, so we motored ten minutes until it came up Northeast. At 1440, we put the motor on to negotiate the shallow passage into Gorda Sound. We anchored at the Bitter End at 1545. there was a time when the Bitter End Yacht Club was the most important place there. Now it seemed the least significant. We went ashore to buy some groceries and then back to the boat for dinner. Sunday, March 14 We took our departure under power at 0900. We were through the pass and sail up at 0955. The wind was Northeast ten to twelve knots. We passed a large cruise ship. Continued on Page Five Continued from Page Four Aboard FLICKA of ST. CROIX In the past we didn’t see any cruise ships around here, but now we see many. The wind backed and increased as we rounded the end of Peter Island. We anchored off the Bill Bones concession on Norman Island at 1405. The Bight seems to be the most protected in the British Virgin Islands. The place was really loaded with sailboats just like Jost Vandyke. In the evening their masthead lights made you feel you were looking at the lights of a city. Monday, March 15 Back to St. Croix. We started on a course to avoid Monica Rock. We were under sail at 0700 with the wind Northeast at ten to twelve. By 1000 the wind was up to sixteen, gusting to eighteen. The distance to St. Croix was forty-one miles. On the way, we passed a school of flying fish. We were back in Salt River at 1420.
Forty-one miles in seven hours was faster than the trip over. Conclusions - The Boat We have had our Flicka since 1984 when we brought her here from Slydell, Louisiana. We have been out in her in all kinds of weather and she has never let us down. If you are willing to travel at four to six knots, she will always get you there. Phil claims that she will never capsize. I won’t go that far, but I claim it is very unlikely. Cruising for two is ideal and day sailing for five is comfortable. The Weather The weather could not have been any better. It was never too hot or too cold. The sun shown all day every day. The Wind
The wind never exceeded nineteen knots and never completely deserted us. The only time we had to beat was from Salt River to Buck Island. The thirty mile passage from Jost Vandyke to Virgin Gorda usually requires a series of tacks in the wind, taking several days. We could have made it on one tack in one day. The Location The British Virgin Islands is a very popular cruising area. It is almost an enclosed body of water. The first time we cruised there on a charter boat, one of our crew kept us from going to Jost Vandyke because it was out in the “open ocean.” There are many snug anchorages, mostly deep water up to the shore and plenty of exploring to do.